In mythology, Kea, the westernmost of the Cycladic islands – just 12 nautical miles off the coast of the tip of Attica and 52 from Piraeus – was once the home of nymphs who lived in its dense forests. Due to its abundant water sources, it was known as Hydroussa. One day, a lion appeared and began to chase the nymphs, who escaped to Sirius – the brightest star in the sky. Sirius then burned Hydroussa and the other Cyclades with its powerful rays – and, for the most part, deprived them of their verdant glory for good. The lion, however, is still there – albeit in imposing, sculpted rock form, 6 meters long at Liontas, 1.5 kilometer northeast of Hora (or Ioulida), the island’s capital. Kea, which has a total area of 130 square kilometers, has also retained some rare and superb oak forests. The greatest part of its natural beauty, however, seems hidden in its wide network of mostly stone-paved old trails and footpaths, some 36 km in all, which make it a walkers’ haven. Kea, also known as Tzia, flourished in the pre-Classical period (7th-6th centuries BC), when it comprised four independent and economically strong city-states: Ioulida, Karthaia, Poiiessa and Korissia. Some of the walking trails date back to those times. The almond-shaped island’s terrain is mostly arid and hilly, marked by deep gorges and tranquil valleys dotted with chapels.

The highest summit, Profitis Ilias, rises to 568 meters. Farming is the main occupation, but in the last decade or so proximity to Athens has made tourism a fast-growing sector, attracting many wealthy Greeks and weekenders who flaunt their boats and have pushed up realty prices. Some complain, with a little exaggeration that Kea now feels like a suburb of Athens. Hora, about 6 km from Korissia (also known as Livadi), and perched on the side of a steep hill, is charming. A protected traditional settlement, all motor vehicles have to be left outside the settlement – quite a blessing, for whether on foot or by donkey power, it is a joy negotiating the narrow, stone-paved alleyways that pass below arches linking the white houses.

At the entrance to the settlement, note the wall paintings by renowned artist Alekos Fassianos, then visit the neoclassical Town Hall and the former school (both designed by Ernst Ziller). Continue past the ruins of an old fort and ascend the hill toward the deserted windmills, once the biggest windmill park in the Cyclades, comprising 26 in all, that milled the island’s sizable wheat harvests. Hora is a lively place, full of small bars and tavernas along the quaint alleyways.